Day 5: Breakfast with Leo
Day 5 began just the way Day 4 had ended, by making gastronomic love to Vegemil – all its variants. Two packs of crazily yummy almond and walnut (A&W – A&Wesome?), a pack of decent black bean, and a pack of another variant that slips my tongue, er, mind. Followed by the standard room breakfast with friends over thepla and aachaar, and accompanied by the Oscars (it was Monday, Feb 29 in Bangkok).
Dithering and dilly-dallying (our own Piggy Chops was to present an award), we finally pulled ourselves out as Leo finally won his Oscar. Ruminating over whether veg folk have to eventually eat non-veg (bison liver) to attain success, I got ready for a day of work and shopping with F1 (friend 1, non-vegetarian). F2 (friend 2, vegetarian) was staying in to catch up on mails as his vacation was ending and his work was resuming (after our holiday, he was to stay there till the weekend for a conference).
The last shopping spree
F1 and I spent a couple of hours in the wholesale market for his product and eventually left disappointed as he felt he hadn’t achieved what he wanted to on this trip and so it was a disaster. To assuage that perhaps, he then hit the shopping zones again. We went first to MBK (like a giant and hip Spencer Plaza in Chennai) and then to Robinson’s (Bangkok’s version of Shoppers Stop and Lifestyle, I figured) for some clothes-shopping.
Where’s the green?
Out for four hours by now, we decided to address our increasing rumbles. We resolved to play it really safe our last day in Bangkok and before a flight, so zoned in on Subway. Subway in India has a good deal of vegan options (if you don’t have any of the cream servings and sauces), so I was happy. In we go, I look around, and get a feeling of Day 4 déjà vu: where are the symbols and boards for green / veg and red / non-veg, as in India?
They are obviously not there, and you end up ruminating over culture (these signs and symbols are given in a country like India, and perhaps India alone – I don’t think any other country is as vegetarian as India) and history (India indeed must have been the birthplace of many a civilization and culture – Buddhism, attitude toward animals, food choices).
Really, where’s the green?
But you can only mull over this for a minute and then need to get practical again: you haven’t eaten for four hours, your legs are whining from all the walking, and there’s only so much fries and Coke you can do. My sharp eyes, rather, contact lenses, spotted ‘Vegetarian’ written after all. Ah, where there’s a vegan, there’s a way… I go up to the counter, look around, and then ask the lady attendant very softly (as I would have crumbled if she had replied in the vegan-negative), “What is the vegetarian option? I don’t seem to see it…” She smiled, went to the fridge and pulled out three patties. Oh, right, where’s the demand here? I went ahead with it, with my usual selections of: multigrain bread (doesn’t have milk), no cheese, no sauces that have mayo. It’s ready, I bite, and I’m in India again.
Refuelled, we decide to shop again, this time for food, F1 for the extra time he’d be spending in Bangkok compared with me (I was leaving first; he would leave 12 hours later as he had some pending work) and for back home. While he bought a few items, I looked around for Vegemil and not spotting it there, decided to keep my shopping for Villa Market nearer the hotel.
The last Vegemils
It was early evening by the time we returned to the hotel. I of course had Vegeville, or Villa Market, to go to. I put in four packs of A&W (I wanted to put in more, but reminded myself that I was flying tomorrow, that too early morning, that too alone), a pack each of the black bean and the one-whose-name-I-can’t-remember, a pack then of the kiddie flavours (I wanted to have my fill of Vegemil – Vegefil? – before leaving), and then to show that I wasn’t biased toward a Korean brand in Thailand, I decided to take in a bottle each of HomeSoy. To eat, I put a ready-to-make cup each of porridge and flavoured rice from another brand I can’t remember. Who said I didn’t shop in Thailand?
The last dinner
Dinner, our last together in Bangkok on this trip, was a good-natured one – at our favourite Aryaa’s, with tried-and-tested items (mine was daal khichdi), and with no friction-inciting conversation. We ended with an observation: the food here seems better than back at home, at least most places back home. And then got the realization: as there are fewer takers here than back home, they make the food fresh rather than make it and keep heating it over and over again. You always see things afresh when outside your home zone.
Back at the hotel, the friends educated me on the procedures at the airport. I would like to think they were seriously thoughtful about my first solo unaccompanied international flight than about the edibles they were transporting back through me. “If you reach a hitch, message us…” they trailed off.
I came back, packed my stuff, and decided to wash the food down with HomeSoy. Er, the night wouldn’t end well, if that was its taste. (Also, it wasn’t Thai, but Malaysian; so Thailand got back at me.) I decided to have one, then two Vegemils, but only two – I wanted to leave some manna for the morning.
Day 6: The last Vegemil
I managed to get up at the alarm. Perhaps the prospect of winding my trip with A&Wesome helped me do so? Coffee done, ready-to-cook porridge (felt a bit coarse) and rice (nice) done, Vegemil black bean done, Vegemil other done, Vegemil A&W last-but-one done. I was staring at the last pack. Like a lover who was separating. But not without one last kiss. I pulled out the straw, pierced the opening, and gave in to it.
As if to allow the taste of it to linger, the security officials at the airport asked me to throw out my two bottles of water.
Going through the procedures as guided by my friends and after checking with an attendant there, I was at the boarding gate. No more deep-brown food, only deep-brown faces. I was getting home.
Day 6: Mid-air mercies
An hour into the flight, the trolley came trolleying. I hadn’t done a web check-in this time, so hadn’t indicated my vegan preference. I asked for the veg meal, with the thought that I would follow my SOP of letting the non-vegan items be. Mercifully, it was South Indian / Tamil food (vada, sambar, upma). And more mercies, it was not made in South India / Tamil Nadu, but by an India-sensitized Thai catering service, so it didn’t have ghee. To me, that spelt glee.
Day 6: Land ahoy, such joy
Landing, I again proceeded as the friends had instructed, going into the Nothing to Declare lane although I was carrying dairy products (F1’s chocolates and two bottles of some flavoured milk brand). I felt all sinister thinking I was sneaking in contraband, though F1 later joked that this little amount doesn’t count.
At the immigration counter, there was a bit of crowd, so I pulled out the last red rose apples I had kept and chomped into them. The last bit of Bangkok in me.
Immigration check done, I went into Duty Free, as each of the friends had asked me to pick up a carton of ciggies and a bottle of wine (for their brothers and friends back home). I found neither brand, and was secretly happy. I hadn’t bought any anti-vegan, anti-health items in Bangkok, and I guess I wasn’t going to do it here.
I had managed to be vegan throughout the trip, give or take a few. Not bad for your first international trip ever, that too to South-East Asia aka Seafood Asia. You know, I deserved an Oscar myself for this achievement.
This is the final part of a five-part series on being vegan in Bangkok, or at least trying. Read the previous parts here.
Day 1: All’s Well
Day 2: All’s Not Well
Day 3: Getting One Back